MSSE's 2025 Icelandic Adventures

Day 1: Wednesday, March 19, 2025

Icelandic Adventures: Rift Angels, Ghost Towns, and Lava Waterfalls

Our first day in Iceland kicked off at 6 AM with an airport pickup, reuniting with old travel friends from Nepal and the Galápagos while making new ones. With our guide Lovisa and driver Jacob leading the way, we set off to explore the dramatic landscapes of the Reykjanes Peninsula.

First stop: the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian plates pull apart. The soft black volcanic sand invited Stephanie to create “rift angels” in the geological divide. From there, we hiked the basalt cliffs of Valahnúkamöl, watching fulmars nest in the rocky crevices and marveling at the brilliant blue-green waters—recognizable as a filming location from Eurovision: The Story of Fire Saga!

Geothermal wonders were next on the list, as we visited bubbling hot springs and mud pots reminiscent of Yellowstone, all while Lovisa entertained us with Icelandic folklore.

In the abandoned town of Grindavík—evacuated in late 2023 due to volcanic activity—we saw eerie, silent streets, a haunting reminder of nature’s power.

After a quick look at the famed Blue Lagoon, we journeyed north to witness steaming hot springs blasting 45 gallons of boiling water per second. We made an impromptu stop at fish-drying racks, learning how Icelanders minimize waste by using every part of the catch.

Our final sightseeing gems were the mesmerizing Hraunfossar (lava waterfalls) and Barnafoss (children’s waterfall), where Louvisa sweetened the experience with Icelandic “lava” chocolates. The day wrapped up with a celebratory dinner at a riverside hotel in western Iceland—filled with toasts, gratitude, and a hearty “Skál!”

Day 2: Thursday, March 20, 2025

Icelandic Adventures: Beaches, Cliffs, and Craters

The day started at 7:30 am with a delicious Icelandic breakfast and a departure from Hotel A at 8:30 to start our second adventure around the Snæfellsnes area. 

Steady rain accompanied our visits throughout the day. Our first destination was Borg (pronounced ‘Bork’) where the son of the first farmer in Borg, Egill Skalla-Grimsson (1910-1990) wrote the famous poem Sonaterrek.  The steady rain made the stoic statue contrast against the distant glaciers at Borg a Mýrum and appear more resilient.

At Ytri Tunga Seal beach we were in search of harbor and grey seals. The search was on. We spotted the seals hanging out in the North Atlantic. 

Our journey continued to Budir to collect sand samples to understand the rock composition of the beach by dissolving the calcium carbonate (sea shells) with vinegar in ziploc bags brought by Lovísa, our geologist tour guide. After being quizzed by Dave on the vesicular pockets in the boulders around the beach, crystals were found by Cheyenne, Greg, and Lovísa. We also learned  the Latin names of seaweed and about the gas sacs that help them float near the surface of the water from Tegan.

Arnarstapi cliffs didn’t disappoint. Kittiwake’s flew over the ocean and nested on the basaltic cliffside as we took it all in. The views of the columnar basalts amazed us, while we learned about Iceland giants mythology from Lovisa.

Afterwards we walked up the Saxholl Crater (164 ft in elevation) and saw the collapsed core and the surrounding lava fields along with a neighboring cinder cone volcano. 

The journey continued to the Snæfellsnes gift shop and sightseeing around the rest of the peninsula. We viewed  Kirkjufell “arrowhead mountain” or north of the  “The Wall” from Game of Thrones.

Later dinner was served, a debrief occurred, and we arrived back at hotel A after dark where we enjoyed a relaxing evening by the fire. 

Day 3: Friday, March 21, 2025

Icelandic Adventures: The Golden Circle

We woke up to snow today as we headed south to the scenic route called the Golden Circle. Before we left West Iceland, we made a stop at Reykholt, where the poet and politician, Snorri Sturluson lived during the Middle Ages. Lovisa, our storytelling guide, let us know that we would be going to the bakery (yay, donuts) and the site of Snorri’s murder by his son-in-law. The bakery (shown below) below, sadly, was not what we had in mind. Using the heat from the Earth, the villagers used this oven to bake their bread. After seeing the site of Snorri’s demise in the hot pool, we made a stop at the cemetery in front of the church where we learned that Icelanders have names ending in either “son” or “dottir”. Unlike a typical family surname that is carried down, Icelanders take the first name of the father or mother. Our guide’s last name is Birgisdottir, which indicates that she is the daughter of Birgis. Birgis would be her father’s first name. 

From Reykholdt, we enjoyed a scenic drive to Thingvellir National Park, an area where part of the Mid Atlantic spreading ridge runs through Iceland. Before walking the park, Dave stopped us in front of the relief map (shown below) in the visitor’s center to give us an overview of the geology of the area. If you are wondering what the red indicates, it is areas where there are villages in Iceland.

Not only is the geological significance of this rift valley important, but Thingvellir, which translates to “Assembly Plains” is also an area where significant historical events took place. Lovisa shared how people would gather to set laws and settle disputes. We also learned about the fates of those that broke the laws. 

Our next stop was Geysir, also known as The Great Geysir. We call these sprouting hot springs “geysers” which is derived from Geysir. According to the posted sign at Geysir, the Geysir’s eruption can reach a height of 70-80 meters, in between the height of Old Faithful at 25-55 meters and Steamboat which reaches a height between 90-120 meters. We watched the nearby geyser, Stokkur, which erupts much more frequently, about every 3-4 minutes and reaches a height of about 30 meters.

After visiting Geysir, we headed to Gullfoss, Iceland’s most famous waterfall (shown below). Gullfoss waterfall is a two tiered cascade fed by the Hvítá River, which originates from the Langjökull glacier, Iceland's second-largest glacier. The name "Gullfoss" means "Golden Falls" in Icelandic. This site was pretty spectacular and so was the gift shop.

From here, we made our way to our new accommodations which included hot tubs, yes! In the evening, many of us took advantage of the hot tub amenities and were treated to the Northern Lights. Picture credit to Tegan Mortimer.

Day 4: Saturday, March 22, 2025

Icelandic Adventures: Historic Farms, Waterfalls, and Volcanoes

Our journey began at Keldur, one of Iceland’s oldest farms, dating back to the 12th century. The name Keldur means "spring," a fitting name for a place surrounded by spring-fed brooks that once sustained its inhabitants. This historic site, mentioned in the Icelandic sagas, was home to noble landowners and had connections to the famous Snorri Sturluson. His niece even lived here, and Snorri himself may have visited.

We were fortunate to have a tour guide from the National Museum of Iceland make a special trip to open the site for us. Normally, Keldur is only open to the public starting in June, making this an exclusive glimpse into one of Iceland’s most treasured historical sites.

One of Keldur’s most intriguing features is an underground Y-shaped escape tunnel, forgotten until workers accidentally fell into it. Hidden passages appear in sagas, but this is the only known real-life example. It may have even been concealed beneath a bed!

Keldur was continuously inhabited until 1946. As Iceland gained independence, interest in preserving historic sites grew, and the farm was eventually placed under the care of the National Museum of Iceland. The nearby Keldur Church, built in 1875, is likely the fourth church on this site and remains active today, hosting ceremonies about once a month.

The farmstead’s architecture gives an authentic glimpse into medieval Icelandic life. The longhouse, with its six-foot-thick turf walls and timber construction, was designed to withstand Iceland’s harsh climate. Timber was scarce, so much of it was salvaged from the beaches, still showing worm marks from its time at sea. 

Over time, volcanic activity and overgrazing turned the area into a sand wasteland, leading to the abandonment of many nearby farms. Keldur barely survived, saved by a defensive wall built to stop sand from covering its fields. The Icelandic Forestry Service is now experimenting with reforesting projects to combat soil erosion.

Next, we arrived at Seljalandsfoss, a stunning 65-meter-high waterfall that plunges from an ancient sea cliff. A unique feature of this waterfall is the path that allows visitors to walk behind the cascading water, offering an unforgettable perspective. But the adventure didn’t stop there—our route also took us directly through the waterfall, for a fun way to finish the stop. 

Our journey continued to Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano that made headlines in 2010 when its eruption shut down European airspace for six days. While the eruption caused major disruptions, it also put Iceland on the map as a must-visit destination, sparking a tourism boom that continues today.

A short drive brought us to Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s most famous waterfalls. Standing 62 meters tall and 15 meters wide, this powerful cascade originates from ancient sea cliffs, remnants of Iceland’s changing coastline. This spot also marks the beginning of the Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, a legendary trek through volcanic landscapes.

We stopped for lunch at Freya Café, located at the Skógar Museum, a cozy place to warm up and enjoy Icelandic flavors before continuing our adventure.

Reynisfjara, Iceland’s famous black sand beach, was our next destination. This breathtaking location is framed by stunning columnar basalt formations, created by cooling lava that fractured into geometric shapes. The contrast of the dark volcanic sand against the crashing Atlantic waves makes it one of Iceland’s most striking landscapes.

Professor Dr. John Graves demonstrates how to measure wind speed. 

Our final stop was Eldhraun, a vast lava field covered in woolly fringe moss. This eerie, otherworldly terrain was created by the Laki eruption of 1783-84, one of the most catastrophic volcanic events in history. Today, the moss gives the lava an almost soft, surreal beauty.

Day 5: Sunday, March 23, 2025

Icelandic Adventures: Dagur Fimm

As we pulled out of the hotel parking lot on the way to a secret stop, we discussed the Volcano Hekla, its various recent (last 1000 years) eruptions, and its representation in the Middle Ages as the gates to hell. Our secret stop, by grace of our guides, was our driver's hometown and his local cathedral, Skálholt. Skálholt, translated to “bowl on the hill”, is a church that was created when multiple Nordic countries gave material to construct it. It has regular services, but also is used a place of recording for many choirs and musicians due to its incredible acoustics.

After our secret stop, we went to Fridheimer Greenhouse. We first were greeted by Icelandic horses, which by size would be considered ponies in other places, but due to endurance, strength, and bravery, they are to be referred to as horses by all.

We then took a tour through the incrediblly technologically advanced green houses, where they grow tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and flowers. After being taught about how they import small amounts of inputs to create an incredible amount of outputs using geothermal energy and hot water for light and heat, we were treated to a wonderful all-you-can-eat tomato soup and bread lunch. 

After that, we stoped at Fontana hot springs, where we took part in traditional Icelandic bathing culture. We had options of soaking in hot pools, going into steam rooms above an active hot spring, and to even jump in the freezing lake! We got to take a walk down the lake to see how they prepare Icelandic rye bread, cooked below the sand in a hot spring for 24 hours.

Our last stop was to visit cinder cone caldera, where we could either walk around the rim of the caldera and look down to a groundwater pool, or walk down and see the freezing pool ourselves. 

Day Five in Eddic Poetry Style 
Fornyrdislag (Epic Meter)

Dagur Fimm - k.sperling

Behold! In the wake of the Equinox 
Balance was the demeanor of day 

Light has fought to overcome the Darkness 
Lessons have been learned on both a land and a people 

Hekla, a creator of new earth, the ancient gates of hell 
Hang high above us in the snowy heavens

While we visited Skálholt, the cumulative cathedral
We were welcomed with open arms from our gracious guides 

Icelandic horses, recipients of Norwegian, Scottish, and Mongolian blood
Inherited the hardiest qualities of each 

Though they were bred for endurance, speed, and bravery 
The softness of their coats are known to our hands and the gentleness of their souls are known to our hearts 

Just after being transported through the village in the trees
Jewels of the vine hang long in glass castles

Tomato seeds, bees, bugs and shells may be imported but
Technology of this icy island makes magic happen

Springs if steam seep out below our feet
Sing as heralds of destruction yet to come

While waiting, we purify ourselves in the earths exhale 
We wake the brown bread from its long slumber 

Creator or caldera? Two paths lead to different views but the same end 
Created by an explosive force, it now cradles a frosty pool

Finally! The end of Day Five!
Fire and Ice has carved both the land and our minds alike 

Day 6: Monday, March 24, 2025

Icelandic Adventures: Glaciers, Icebergs, Caves, and Crystals

We woke to the crisp Arctic air, bundled in our warmest clothes and ready to embark on another thrilling day of geological discovery. Iceland is a land where the forces of fire and ice collide, and today, we were going to witness it all firsthand through a glacier.

Skeiðarársandur – The Aftermath of a Catastrophic Flood
Our first stop was Skeiðarársandur, a vast glacial outwash plain that bore the scars of the 1996 Grímsvötn volcanic eruption. The sheer power of the floodwaters and icebergs released during the eruption was evident in the twisted remains of a bridge that once spanned the area. It was a stark reminder of the dynamic relationship between fire and ice in Iceland, where volcanic activity can trigger massive glacial floods known as jökulhlaups. We stood in awe, imagining the roaring torrents that once swept through this land, reshaping it in a matter of hours.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon – Drifting Giants of Ice
Next, we walked along the shores of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where massive icebergs floated serenely in the frigid waters. The ice shimmered in vibrant shades of blue, white, and black, reflecting centuries of compressed snowfall and volcanic ash. Seals—likely harbor or grey seals—bobbed in the icy waters, watching us curiously as we admired the frozen monoliths drifting toward the sea. These icebergs calve off the Vatnajökull glacier, slowly melting as they journey toward the Atlantic. The scene was otherworldly, like stepping into a frozen dreamscape. In Icelandic the word jökull means glacier. 

Ice Cave Exploration at Vatnajökull – A Hidden World Beneath the Glacier
One of the most thrilling experiences of the day was climbing through an ice cave within Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. The smooth, undulating walls of the cave—called scallops—told a story of wind and water carving through the ancient ice. Inside, the air was eerily still, and the ice glowed an ethereal blue. We learned that the clearer the ice, the more intensely blue it appears, and using high exposure on our cameras helped capture its stunning hue. The ice around us was 800 years old, yet the glacier itself is retreating at a shocking rate of 100 meters per year. Bubbles trapped in the ice reflected light in fascinating ways, adding to the cave’s surreal beauty. This magnificent cave, shaped by seasonal meltwater, would only exist for a short time before nature reshaped it once again.

Glacier Hike and Small Ice Cave Descent
After leaving the cave, we continued our adventure with a glacier hike, traversing the icy expanse of Vatnajökull. Midway through our trek, we encountered a smaller ice cave and carefully descended into it. The walls of ice rose around us, revealing intricate patterns formed by centuries of compression. It was both exhilarating and humbling to stand in a place that few have ventured, surrounded by layers of ice that held the history of the Earth within them.

Diamond Beach – Nature’s Crystal Display
As the day wound down, we arrived at Diamond Beach, a striking stretch of black sand where icebergs from Jökulsárlón wash ashore, glistening like diamonds in the sunlight. The contrast of crystal-clear ice against the volcanic black sand was mesmerizing. Each iceberg was unique—some smooth and rounded, others jagged and sculptural, slowly melting as the waves lapped at their edges. It was a poignant reminder of the glacier’s cycle of birth and decay, a process as beautiful as it was transient.

As we stood on the shore freezing from the wind, watching the light of the day dance across the ice, we felt a profound connection to the raw forces shaping this incredible land. Iceland has once again revealed its magic to us, and we can’t wait for what lies ahead in our final full day.

Day 7: Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Icelandic Adventures: Coffee, Last Stops, and Thank Yous

On our final day of the tour we enjoyed an unexpected stop at Vatnajokull National Park center. It is a UNESCO World Heritsge site. We took a photo of another beautiful falls called the Sisters. 

From there we traveled to a place to get coffee, much to Dave’s delight. He ran off the bus and could be heard screaming, "coffee, coffee, coffee!" A few more US dollars were left in Iceland as folks bought candy, shirts, jackets and more. 

After nearly two hours of travel it was time for lunch. The bakery didn’t disappoint. The bread, sweet pastries, soup and coffee hit the spot. 

Our final informational stop was at the Hellisheidi Power Plant. Here the stem of hot water from the ground has been used to generate electricity since 2006. In addition, carbon capture and storage began operating in 2021. During his career at MSU, Dr. Dave Lageson was also involved in carbon sequestration. 

Finally we would like to thank our interpretive guide, Lovisa, for sharing her extensive knowledge of Iceland as we toured and Jacob, our driver, who expertly navigated the roundabouts and the varying road conditions. 

Our tour ended with a farewell dinner.